A London walking tour is not complete without visiting some of the city's historic public houses. Many of the most famous British subjects have frequented these establishments over the years. While you enjoy their delicious comfort food and real ale, experience the ambiance of these unique time capsules from London's past.
Anchor Bankside
Perched on the south bank of the Thames, the Anchor Bankside is one of the oldest public houses in London. William Shakespeare may have dined here! The current pub opened in 1615; however, there has been a tavern at this location near the Globe Theatre since the 1500's.
Samuel Pepys described in his famous diary how he crossed the Thames on September 2, 1666, and watched London burn from the safety of the Anchor pub during the Great London Fire. Ten years later, Southwark was devastated by fire, and this time the Anchor was destroyed. The pub was rebuilt in 1676.
During the 18th century, Dr. Samuel Johnson was a frequent visitor to the Anchor. It is believed he wrote some of his Dictionary of the English Language here before publishing the famous book in 1755. Other regulars included Oliver Goldsmith, the Irish playwright, and Sir Joshua Reynolds, the 18th century English portrait artist.
Unfortunately, parts of the tavern have been demolished, rebuilt, and expanded over the years so that very little of the original pub remains.
Lamb and Flag
Located down a brick lane near Covent Garden, the Lamb and Flag has been a public house for 375 years. Once known as the Coopers Arms, it was later renamed Bucket of Blood and hosted gory bare-knuckle fisticuff matches.
The Lamb and Flag was one of the few public houses to have survived the Great Fire of 1666. In 1679, John Dryden, the poet and playwright, was attacked and nearly killed in the alley outside this pub. During the 19th century, Charles Dickens was a frequent visitor and considered the Lamb and Flag to be one of his favorite pubs.
The Ten Bells
The Ten Bells dates back to at least 1752. Located in the East End near Spitalfields Market, on the corner of Commercial Street and Fournier Street, The Ten Bells pub became infamous in 1888 when five women were brutally murdered by Jack the Ripper nearby. All of the victims were thought to have frequented the pub. The last and most horribly butchered victim, Mary Kelly, solicited for business on the sidewalk outside and is known to have visited The Ten Bells just hours before her death.
The Ten Bells was renamed The Jack the Ripper from 1976 to 1988 to exploit its sordid past.
Trafalgar Tavern
The Trafalgar Tavern was constructed in 1837, the year Princess Victoria became Queen of England. Located in Greenwich near the National Maritime Museum, in its heyday the Tavern hosted fancy Whitebait Suppers for London's high society, including Members of Parliament. Both William Gladstone and Charles Dickens dined here.
In 1915 the tavern became a seaman's hostel and later a working men's club. Reopened in 1965 as the elegant regency style Trafalgar Tavern, the menu still includes delicious whitebait.
Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese
Located off Fleet Street up a narrow alley, Ye Olde Cheshire Cheese is a tourist must-see. The Horn Tavern was located on this site in 1538. The current establishment was built in 1667 after the previous pub was destroyed in the Great London Fire of 1666. Visitors have included Dr. Samuel Johnson, Jack Dempsey, Charles Dickens, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Oliver Goldsmith, Teddy Roosevelt, Mark Twain, Alexander Pope, William Butler Yeats, Voltaire, Oscar Wilde, and William Makepeace Thackeray.
The atmospheric interior has dark paneled wood, low-beamed ceilings, and ancient fireplaces. In the basement is a dark and gloomy dungeon bar with vaulted ceilings that might date back to a 13th century monastery.
Living History
As you relax in one of these historic bars, it is easy to imagine Dr. Samuel Johnson evesdropping on conversations as he sought new words for his dictionary, or Charles Dickens observing fellow patrons as he created unique characters for his books. A Jack the Ripper tour to The Ten Bells near Whitechapel Road still sends shivers down the spine, and Trafalgar Tavern is a reminder of a more elegant age. Walk in the footsteps of these historical giants and visit London's pubs.
Sources:
- Donald Olson, London for Dummies, 4th Edition, (Wiley Publishing, Inc. 2006)
- Jason Cochran, "Drink Like Dickens: 15 Historic London Pubs You'll Love", Frommer's, February 2007, frommers.com
- John Smithkey III, "The Ten Bells Pub", Casebook: Jack the Ripper, casebook.org
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